Monday, 28 April 2014

Hobbiton, Te Puia Geothermal Park and Taupo

We stayed in Matamata on Monday because of its close location to Hobbiton the movie set for The Lord of the Rings trilogy and the Hobbit films. Admittedly, being a big LotR fan, Louise was more excited about this than I was. I liked the LotR films but haven't read the books although I did enjoy The Hobbit book when I was younger, but haven't seen that set of films. However, it is always interesting to visit film sets and see how everything was created and brought to life from imagination. Hopefully this would have made Tolkein proud and we definitely felt as though we had been transported to The Shire in Middle Earth.


Hobbiton was incredible. So much detail has gone into each part of the set and just looking around at the many hobbit holes it is not difficult to imagine hobbits roaming around inside them. All the hobbit holes are different sizes so that scenes could be filmed making certain characters look taller or shorter, playing with the audience's perspective to make the film more realistic. Only one hobbit hole is 100% to scale on the whole set. 

Below are some of the many photos I took from the tour. As you can probably tell I was snap happy and it was difficult narrowing down my 100+ Hobbiton photos. Whilst walking around the set we were told interesting facts about Hobbiton and the filming of the movies, some of which I have shared with the photos. 


Hobbiton was built originally for the LotR movie trilogy brought to life by director Peter Jackson. Originally he wanted to make two films but the company, Miramax, he first took it to disagreed with him due to financial reasons and wanted one film. Jackson spent nearly four weeks travelling around Hollywood trying to sell the idea of two films, before meeting with New Line Cinema. It was here that it was suggested that three movies were made as the book was released in three volumes. Obviously this was an offer that could not be refused and the creation of Middle Earth was underway. 

Fake smoke pouring out of one Hobbit's chimney. I believe steam was used instead.


The ideal land for the Hobbiton set was found by location scouts after flying over it in a helicopter. When they first approached the family that owned the farm to have a look around they accidentally interrupted a rugby match on TV and were asked to come back later. Instead the scouts got permission to have a walk around the land before leaving. Nothing was said until about 6 months later when the family who owned the land were asked if it could be used for filming. 

The family had never heard of the LotR books but agreed to the use of their farm anyway. It was perfect for the location scouts as there was no man made features apart from one building which was disguised by trees. The fences were redone to fit in with the style required for the film but beyond this there were no major changes.

This short ladder was adorable.


The New Zealand army was brought in to help clear the land and get it ready months before filming began. This was to allow for the plants to grow giving the land the gritty realism that Jackson had envisioned for the films. The family were sworn to confidentiality and so they told their neighbours that the army was using the farm land for training. 



Bilbo Baggin's home is described as being under a tree in the book, which is shown in the photo above. However, this tree is fake as there was not one naturally occurring in the landscape. To create the artificial tree a real oak tree was cut down and reassembled on site. Thousands of hand painted leaves were imported from Taiwan to be attached to the tree to make it look alive, all for a couple of minutes on the silver screen.

When the time came to film The Hobbbit the leaves had either fallen off or become bleached and so the tree was rewired. Unfortunately, just before filming Peter Jackson became ill and could not work on the set. When he finally came back he decided that the leave a were too bleached and that they all needed to be repainted before filming started! 



As can be seen there are stunning views of rolling hills as the backdrop of Hobbiton. It was on this land that the farmers sheep used to graze. However, during filming they had to move a total of 12,000 sheep that were popping up in the fields in the background. 



This is the Green Dragon Pun from the books and it is absolutely fantastic. The attention to detail is amazing from the Hobbit coats and hats hanging on the walls to the posters and advertisements which adorn the walls. The original pub was burnt down during the filming process for one of the movies. The one that stands at Hobbiton today is a replica with painstaking attention to detail, so much so that it appears almost identical to the first. It was here we got to have a free Middle Earth cider, ale or ginger beer to complete our tour. 



All three of the LotR films were shot in one go on the land and the intention was to demolish the movie set after use and it was only built of temporary materials for this very reason. However, a storm in the winter halted the destruction process and it was during this time that the family who owned the land could finally tell their neighbours what had been going on. 

Many were curious and wanted to have a look at the remains of the set. Following this, the idea of leaving the 18 remaining hobbit holes and giving guided tours was developed. Additionally, it transpired that the films were hugely successful. This was lucky for both the family who were starting to operate tours and Sir Peter Jackson, the director, who would have had two extra unwanted films if the first one had been a flop.

Various permissions were sought and paperwork completed to allow the family to operate tours with no legal repercussions. When the film company wanted to film The Hobbit they again requested use of the farm. It was agreed on the condition that they make the set permanent out of lasting materials so that any visitors could see Hobbiton in full. It was agreed and today there are around 40 hobbit holes dotted across the hill sides creating the perfect image of a cute, cosy village; an incredible film set. 



After tearing a besotted Louise away from Hobbiton it was time to drive to Rotorua. We didn't actually make it into the town centre as we were just driving past on our way to Taupo but we stopped at the Te Puia Geothermal Park to have a look around. 

Geographically New Zealand is an extremely interesting country sitting on tectonic plates. Therefore it is volcanic, earthquake prone and full of geothermal activity. Rotorua is a prime example of this as it sits on the Rotorua Caldera meaning there are geysers and hot mud pools in the area. There is also an extremely strong sulphur smell which can be a little suffocating at first. 

The long and unpronounceable name. 

In addition to being a geothermal park, Te Puia is an area dedicated to Maori tradition and history. Tours educate guests in Maori customs and our lovely guide, who called us family from the beginning, was more than happy to share aspects of her life and culture with us. 


The stone above is called greenstone, Pounamu in Maori, and is important in Maori tradition as it is considered a treasure. It increases with prestige through generations and therefore the eldest are often the most prized. It is often given to others but you should never buy it for yourself, it should be gifted. 




Above are photos of the present day meeting house which is used by the Maori community. 



These two photos are of the original and much smaller meeting house. Intricate carvings adorn the walls as well as photos of previous leaders and important people. 

storage house for food and other perishables. The stilts are meant to raise it from the ground and therefore away from theiving animals. 


Carvings and beautiful woodwork is another part of the Maori life as they use it for decoration and for telling stories through, allowing them to be passed through generations. Interestingly, it is only recently that Maori has become a written language. At Te Puia there is a carving and weaving school. 





Above are the extremely beautiful geysers, an incredible natural formation which look exquisitely beautiful in the grey landscape, causing a colourful rainbow. It is the angry, rolling clouds that I loved when we were there and in these photographs. Watching the geysers was magical and our guide timed it perfectly as they only 'blow' like this every couple of hours. In fact, the first geyser in the photos, furthest to the left of the photo, hardly ever blows so we were extremely lucky. 


The hot mud pools were continuously bubbling, popping and exploding liquid mud which made for an interesting sight. 



We left Te Puia to carry on our merry way with around an hours worth of driving left. The journey to Taupo was packed full of beautiful scenery and it was a pleasure to drive along the winding roads drinking it in. 



We arrived in Taupo in the early evening and quickly stopped at a viewpoint just north of the great Taupo Lake before driving through the small town to our hostel. We had a relaxed evening with some take away pizza and getting some rest before the drive to Wellington the following day. 



Until next time. 

A x

Wednesday, 23 April 2014

Waitomo Caves and Matamata

On Monday we picked up our hire car, after getting some truly hideous passport photos for visas, and set off on our journey of the North Island. Owing to the fact that Louise does not have a driving license I was the driver and she was the navigator and sat-nav supreme. We managed to get to our destination, Waitomo Caves, without getting too lost but we did have some 'route re-calculating' to do along the way. 

Waitomo is Maori, wai meaning water and tomo meaning caves. The Caves are natural formations and there are three different major caves open to the public for guided tours or you can join one of the many companies offering abseiling, caving or tubing trips. Unfortunately we did not have the time or money for this and chose to have a tour of two of the caves instead; the limestone one and the highly anticipated Glowworm Cave. 

The first tour through the Limestone Cave gave us the opportunity to see many amazing limestone features such as stalactites and stalagmites. 



This formation is called the Two Elderly Women because it looks like hunched figures draped in shawls.


An earthquake caused the collapse of some of the cave whichever can be seen behind us. There are two rocks lit up in the background which look like two men standing amongst the rubble.

Lastly, this formation is named The Witch.

The next underground world to discover was the famous Glowworm Caves. Once again the cave formations were fantastic and extremely beautiful. The highlight about this cave was the magnificent glowworms. To see them properly we all clambered into a boat and the guide steered us around an underground lake in the cave by pulling a system of ropes. It was extremely peaceful and magical and we stopped in a pitch black tunnel admiring the glowworms which looked like stars upon a night sky. 

We were not allowed to take photos in the caves because Glowworms are sensitive to light and noise, so we had to be quiet too; something I'm not overly good at. However, I have found this wonderful promotional photo on the 100% Pure New Zealand Facebook page, so I cannot take any credit for it. The picture gives you an idea of the magnificent sight Louise and I were privileged to see throughout the cave. 





Glowworms are interesting creatures. They glow to attract prey which they catch in web-like spindles they hang from the cave roof, as seen in the photo above. It looks like thousands of extremely thin icicles hanging from the ceiling, all lit up by a faint blue glow. Once the glowworms develop from the larval stage they have a pretty grim existence. They mature into flies that haven't evolved a mouth and therefore they starve to death after a day.

After our cave adventuring Louise, Edward (the car, named because of the registration starting EDW) and I set off to Matamata, around an hour away. We had booked a room in a basic hotel but were looking forward to having a room to ourselves with an ensuite bathroom and no bunk beds. Luxury. To top it off we had a wonderful dinner in the pub downstairs and not some concoction we had made ourselves. 

Yet again it was another great Monday in the life of a traveller. 

Until next time.

A x

Arriving in New Zealand

We arrived in New Zealand on Saturday 22nd March after a mercifully short 3 hour flight from Sydney. It was at Sydney airport where, for the first time ever, Louise and I were called by name for our flight as being one of the remaining passengers to board. In our defence they were boarding early and we were already walking up to the gate when we heard our names so we were not ridiculously late. 

Upon arrival in New Zealand we headed straight to our hostel in Auckland called Station Backpackers, situated on the fifth floor of what used to be a hotel. The decoration was mismatched and slightly bizzare but it was good enough for two nights. At least my bed was comfy and the people sociable. 



As we had not planned anything prior to our trip to New Zealand, once we were at the hostel that was our primary activity. We had to decide what we really wanted to see and how we wanted to go about it in the extremely limited time we had. Two and a half weeks is not enough to see New Zealand but we did manage to squeeze in a fair amount. Both of us wanted to try and see the North and South Islands, spending more time in the South. After throwing around what felt like a million different ideas and suggestions we came up with what felt like a viable plan. We would drive the North Island ourselves over the course of three days and then we would join the Kiwi Experience bus on the South Island to do their Southern Round-Up package.  

Therefore, on Sunday we visited the Kiwi Experience office, which was handily on our street, to book our tickets. Luckily the tour we wanted to do happened to be on sale and we got it for half the quoted price. Once this was booked we trundled off to all the car hire places, also on our street, to try and find a place that would agree to a one way trip. A couple of places were not open to the idea or ridiculously expensive and the third one we tried would let us have a car but wanted NZD150 to tow the car back from Wellington which wasn't really feasible for our budgets. Starting to think that this idea may not work we ended up in Apex Car Rentals seeing what they could do for us. 

It seemed our luck struck once again as they offered us a relocation deal for one of their cars they wanted in Wellington, our final destination. The car hire was NZD25 a day and taking out the full insurance raised this to NZD40 per day. Hiring the car for three days and paying for the tank of petrol with 20% discount from garage prices cost us just over NZD200 - around £50 each. Excitingly, our last minute plan was finally coming together. 

With the car collection organised for Monday morning we spent the rest of our afternoon looking around Auckland, a city I wasn't overly enamoured with. It felt extremely empty, there were not that many people anywhere and pretty much no traffic could be seen.  





Our evening was spent looking at where we wanted to go on the North Island, looking up routes and booking places to stay. 

Until next time. 

A x

Museum of Contemporary Art, Bondi and leaving Sydney

On Thursday 20th March we visited Sydney's contemporary art gallery as it was a free activity. As with the South African National Gallery some of the artwork was a bit strange but other installations were good... Or at least they made you think or question it which some people argue is the point of art anyway. Below are some of the ones I liked or some of the ones I found bizzare. Spider-Man, I'm talking about you.













Another exhibition was a video on loop that was projected onto 3 walls in a dark room which had a hypnotic effect. According to the artist it was meant to create a dream-like state in the viewer. It was played with a background of music and chatter and there were pillows in the shapes of torsos and legs scattered across the floor that you could cuddle upto. Louise and I grabbed ourselves a man torso each and spent 15 minutes lying on the floor mesmerised and bewildered by the video. 

From the roof of the art gallery there were lovely views across Circular Quay and we enjoyed taking these in with a cup of tea. 



Following the gallery we walked around Circular Quay to view the Opera House and from there we walked through the Royal Botanic Gardens to Mrs Macquarie's Seat for the classic shot of Sydney Harbour including the Opera House and the Harbour Bridge. 








We walked back down to Hyde Park where we could get the bus to Bondi Beach to see Ian and Anita. Luckily we got there at sunset and were treated to some lovely pink skies above the beach and the surfers bobbing in the sea. 





Our night out was lovely. We had brilliant company and a few bottles of good Australian wine thrown in meaning that we were feeling a bit rough the next morning. It was absolutely lovely catching up with Ian and Anita and I am glad that Lou got to meet them too. Hopefully we can all meet in London again later this year!


Our plans to go to the zoo in Friday fell through spectacularly when we both woke up feeling fragile. Instead we wandered round Surry Hills, an area closer to the hostel and packed with interesting little shops. We spent our evening with Ian and Anita again to have a farewell dinner at a lovely Jamaican restaurant where the food was amazing. It was another brilliant evening but thankfully it involved far less wine this time. 

Unfortunately Saturday dawned way too soon and it was time for us to bid goodbye to Sydney. It was a very short stop to an extremely beautiful and buzzing city. I definitely liked it here and would return soon given the chance. It is a shame we did not have enough time to explore more of Australia but I feel that we at least got to feel the vibe of Sydney and got to know it a bit in the time we spent there. 

Just quickly... A sight for sore eyes; my travelling outfit. I'm going to try and find an even better one for my next flight.


Until next time. 

A x