There and Back Again

Well, this is it, I have completed my travels and made it, not quite around the world but all the way to the date line and back again. The last 5 and a half months or alternatively, 165 days have been some of the absolute best, thrilling, brilliant and most incredible days of my life. I have been extremely lucky and privileged to have done and seen so many beautiful, breathtaking things in this time, more than in the last 23 years it feels! 

I have reunited and reconnected with family and friends across three different countries and have been received with extraordinary kindness from all of them, even if my visit was extremely last minute and completely out of the blue. Additionally, I have met so many amazing, like-minded people who are all willing to talk and get to know you; hopefully I will know the friends I have made on my trip a very long time. In many cases it is the people you meet that make the journey and the adventuring more fun and it is lovely to have them to share the experience and consequently the memories with. Although, it has to be said that saying goodbye to those I've met along the way, family, old friends and new friends alike has been one of the most difficult things to do. I am extremely glad that I have travelled by myself and also with the best travelling companion ever, Louise. 

I have had the pleasure of visiting some of the most insanely, indescribably beautiful natural spots in the world. The raw and powerful beauty of nature will never cease to amaze and astound me, from the mountains to the underwater world and everything in between. I have been lucky enough to see: the Kruger Park in all it's luscious green glory, where wild and exotic animals roam and the Blyde River Canyon, the third largest in the world, in South Africa, as well as the stunning rugged coastline and famous Garden Route; the Blue Mountains, the haze stretching through valleys as far as the eye can see in Australia; and then New Zealand, oh where do I start?! One of my absolute favourite countries because of the incredible natural landscapes which appear continuously, each seemingly more beautiful and picturesque than the last. The rolling hills and mountains, glassy lakes reflecting everything perfectly and the beautiful Franz Josef and Fox glaciers, nestled between the mountains. Not to forget the paradise that is Fiji with its crystal clear waters and long white sandy beaches or the aqua blue waterfalls and pools in Luang Prabang, Laos or the colourful reefs and the multitude of fish they sustain hidden away under the sea around Koh Tao, Thailand. 

I've witnessed many phenomenal and magnificent sunsets and I've star gazed in South Africa and Fiji, marvelling at the night sky in all it's glory and admiring just how many stars are visible. Occasionally, I've made it up for sunrise and have been rewarded accordingly with delightful starts to the day.

Then of course there are the man made sights, the pretty and clean Sydney, full of tall glittering skyscrapers or the sprawling, infinite entity that is Hong Kong. Busy Hanoi full of old crumbling French colonial buildings and narrow, cramped streets full of intriguing shops or Ho Chi Minh City, modernised beyond my expectations where you are at significant risk of being hit by a motorbike or scooter at any given moment - who said the pavement is only for pedestrians?! Cape Town, my favourite city on this trip seemed to have it all with the waterfront, the mountains and beaches. Straying away from the cities, we saw the breathtaking temples of Angkor Wat, the Faces of Bayon and many others in Cambodia and all the other fabulous temples and palaces throughout South East Asia with their intricate designs and decorations. 

I have been fortunate to witness all of the above and this is not even mentioning the activities I have taken part in. Giving into to my reckless and daring side, I sky dived in the gorgeous Queenstown and threw myself off a 216m bridge (attached of course), as well as jumping off a significantly smaller one of 5m into the freezing blue river below. I've: taken an impromptu road trip to Coffee Bay with the Wolfpack; ridden through The Drakensberg in Lesotho; been wine tasting in Cape Town; climbed the Franz Josef glacier; snorkelled with Reef Shark in possibly the world's most beautiful seas; held a snake in The Mekong Delta; spent a whole day in Chiang Mai riding, looking after and playing with elephants as well as a morning spent cuddling and petting tigers; attended a Thai cooking class; spent many evenings wandering night markets honing my bartering skills; and finally learnt to scuba dive, gaining my open water qualification, to name but a few. 

However, most importantly perhaps, is gaining a bigger understanding of the histories of these countries and various atrocities many of them have faced. This includes the apartheid in South Africa and the evacuation and eradication of District Six; the Cu Chi tunnels in Vietnam an example of the conditions of guerrilla warfare and The War Remnants Museum, telling the story of a country that survived a devastating war but is continuously fighting against the affect of Agent Orange and the disabilities it causes; the S21 prison in Cambodia where the Khmer Rouge imprisoned intellectuals and tortured them and anyone who dare spoke out against the regime and the bone chilling Killing Fields where many were bludgeoned to death, thus saving ammunition; the heavy and continuous carpet bombing of Laos which means that it is the most bombed country and consequently has many problems with unexploded ordinance causing severe injuries and death yearly. Learning about these events is a reminder of how barbaric and cruel the human race can be. It is important to understand what has shaped these countries and it enforces the desire for them to never happen again although they are shockingly recent. Despite the dark past and conflicts that many of these communities have had to endure, as well as the abject poverty that is ever present, they are still some of the happiest, generous, kindest and uplifting people I have ever met. It definitely puts problems into perspective and is completely humbling. 

Travelling has the ability to make sure that you never take anything for granted and that you value the world around you as well as everyone and everything in it. Experiencing the diverse cultural and social differences and seeing how other people live is eye-opening and whilst I enjoyed it, it has certainly made me appreciate home and where I am from. 

There are many different reasons I love travelling: the chance to see and do so many different things which I would never have the opportunity to do back home; the ability to go where we please, when we please, for however long we desire; the people you meet; the complete and utter freedom from trivial stresses of everyday life; the ability to go out and about with odd clothes, no make up and often no shoes; realising that actually, I have no requirement for most of my possessions and I'm happy with the changing contents of my rucksack; the feeling of being alive and not wasting each day. Travelling is about going places, seeing different things, smelling different things. Some vile and disgusting, others beguiling, mysterious and even enticing. It's about sights and colours and sounds. Busy and bustling or quiet, broken only by waves or birdsong. It's about being hot, sweaty and lost, throwing the map to one side in annoyance and stumbling on otherwise unknown or unplanned places. It's about seeing the sights and then doing away with the guidebook for a day, venturing out and finding out what happens when you take that left turn instead of a right. It's about marvelling at the ordinary as well as the extraordinary. Travelling is about people. There is a mind boggling 7 billion of us that populate this world, everyone trying to make their own little story and success and it is this that makes me realise just how small a part we are, yet, meeting the right people out there restores your faith in humanity.

I am devastated that my trip has come to an end and I will miss every little thing about it, even the mosquitos, overnight journeys and constantly packing and unpacking - all things I've claimed not to like at all. For now, I am ready to return home and see family and friends that I miss dearly but I can't wait to travel again, to leave home and break away from the mundane, the usual and the routine. When I am home and studying the memories will have to suffice but I believe I will forever be planning the next adventure because there is so much more to discover. There is a whole world to see out there full of rich history and stories, weird and wonderful people and sights so beautiful that no camera will ever do them justice when compared to what the eye can see. According to 'Been' I have only seen 9% of the world which is something that has to change. 

So, because this is not the end of The Road Liss Travelled, I'll be seeing you. 

Until next time. 

A x

TWO roads diverged in a yellow wood,

And sorry I could not travel both

And be one traveler, long I stood

And looked down one as far as I could

To where it bent in the undergrowth;        

Then took the other, as just as fair,

And having perhaps the better claim,

Because it was grassy and wanted wear;

Though as for that the passing there

Had worn them really about the same,

And both that morning equally lay

In leaves no step had trodden black.

Oh, I kept the first for another day!

Yet knowing how way leads on to way,

I doubted if I should ever come back.

I shall be telling this with a sigh

Somewhere ages and ages hence:

Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -

I took the one less travelled by, 

And that has made all the difference. 

The Road Not Taken by Robert Frost

Goodbye Fiji

Wednesday 24th April was our last day in Fiji and the only day where the weather was not amazing. It forced us to finally do some laundry whilst we had the time and facilities. We treated ourselves to a Deep Tissue massage from the spa next door. It was glorious although I could barely move after it. The rest of the day was spent blogging and packing my monstrosity of a rucksack, it continuously amazes me how much it holds. 

On Thursday morning we were up at the hideously early time of 4:30 so we could get to the airport for our 10 hour flight to Hong Kong. We had an issue at check-in where the woman refused point blank to accept we had booked onwards travel out of Hong Kong and was convinced we were going to overstay the visitor's four months. Eventually we had to buy internet time and email her our copies which she tried to say were duplicates. After nearly tearing our hair out in frustration they finally believed we had onward travel plans and we were allowed through security. After this there was an extremely interesting 'guess which plane your travelling on' game because even though it was listed under gate 8, there were four planes waiting at this gate, none of them giving any indication as to where they were headed. A slightly different airport experience.

I really didn't want to leave Fiji because I fell head over heels in love with it. The laid back atmosphere, the friendly and joyous people and the beautiful scenery were all contributing factors. It truly was paradise. I loved being barefoot, carefree and disconnected from the world; the lack of wifi was a blessing. Lastly, how could I forget my new favourite product and possibly the best invention ever which Fiji introduced me to - pineapple fanta! I've already had to check if it can be purchased online.

So it was with heavy hearts we left Fiji but the adventure was to continue with 8 weeks in South East Asia and our return to the Northern hemisphere. First stop, Hong Kong. 

Until next time. 

A x

Nabua Lodge, Nacula Island

We arrived at Nabua and it rapidly transpired that our good luck followed us as yet again we were in another private bure, although this time there were two single beds. Once again it was wonderfully close to the beach and basic but cosy inside. After dumping our bags we headed to the beach to take some pictures of the fabulous view and enjoy the sunshine. I even managed to do a spot of blogging whilst lying around on the sand. 

That evening we had a wonderful buffet dinner which had been cooked in the ground. Very much like a Maori Hangi, a hole was dug in the ground and lined with rocks. A fire was lit and left for around two hours to heat the rocks through before the food was then cooked on these. It was absolutely delicious and we were spoilt for choice with the selection of meats, fish, salads and root vegetables which are local to Fiji. 

After dinner there was 'bula time' which was a chance to play games and socialise with each other getting to know the staff and other guests. We learnt a new bula dance routine which we were just as bad at as the last one. Two games followed, my favourite being sand and water. A rope is laid across the ground and one side is sand and the other is water. You have to jump between the two as instructed by one of the staff members and if you get it wrong you're out. It led to some funny situations with people desperately trying to balance themselves after almost jumping the wrong way. I was terrible at it and out early. After wearing ourselves out it was time for another shower and then bed, listening to the Harry Potter audiobook to ease us to sleep. Amazing. 

Sunday dawned bright and beautiful and we joined the trip going to the village and the church. It happened to be Easter Sunday too and we enjoyed the simple ceremony and looking round the village. 

It was an extremely hot day so after the service we headed back to the sea to cool down, not that the water is exceptionally cold! When the evening rolled around we played more games, one which I miraculously own and was rewarded with a luminous, radioactive green drink. We were also encouraged to sing our national anthems so the other guests could hear them. Thankfully there were 4 other English girls and we wailed away together sounding very much like rowdy football fans rather than graceful singers. We were put to shame by many of the other guests who sung their anthems well and in some cases by themselves. Afterwards our hosts sung the Fijian anthem for us which was beautiful. 

Monday was our last full day on the islands and we chose to make the most of the sea and the beach, relaxing and just soaking up the sun. We moved about twice; for lunch and for afternoon tea and cake at a stall run by the locals. 

We danced, or at least attempted to, the Bula dance one last time that evening before playing a variety of games. We then sat around chatting with other guests and the locals who kept us amused wih tales of Fiji and continuously making us guess how old they were, as they all look a lot younger than they are. It seemed to entertain them as well. 

On Tuesday after a morning spent on the beach and then lunch it was time for us to say farewell to the islands. We had a five hour boat journey back down the Yasawas chain to Port Denaru and then a bus transfer to Nadi. I spent the journey watching enviously as people hopped off to different islands along the way. 

When we arrived at Smuggler's Cove we took full advantage of the half price pizza deal which was a delicious change when compared to the 11 nights of variations of rice, noodles and potatoes. I shouldn't complain though as we didn't have to cook anything! The 34 bed dorm was blissfully empty and we managed to get a decent sleep before our exciting day of laundry ahead. 

Until next time. 

A x

Long Beach Backpackers, Matacawalevu Island

Long Beach Backpackers was our next stop. This was more like Kuata; basic, laid-back and geared towards backpackers unlike Barefoot. We had a dorm room for three people but apart from our second night we did not have anyone else in it with us.

Long Beach, named after the seemingly endless white strip of sand snaking along the coast line, was beautiful. We went for a stroll down the beach right to the last visible point from the hostel, where the emerald green vegetation finishes in the photo below. 

There were many gorgeous sights along the way as usual in picturesque Fiji. The aqua blue water was beautifully clear and extremely shallow as it was low tide. Walking along the beach in the sunshine was extremely hot and sticky so we took a rest in the shade at the other end of the beach with just the dog that had joined us for company. It was lovely just listening to the sound of the sea and letting the breeze cool us down. 

Once we made it back to the hostel we spent the afternoon on the beach only leaving when we were ousted by the tide creeping it's way up the beach to the tree line. 

Our evening was extremely enjoyable. It started with attempting to play volleyball with the locals and other guests as the sun went down and ended, after dinner, drinking kava and talking to everyone. Chris and Rueben, our hosts, were friendly and extremely curious about where we come from and our lives back home. Trying to describe the population of London, over 6million, to people from island villages and a country with a population of 800,000 was difficult and to them it was a mind blowing number of people. Whilst many visitors to Fiji describe it as paradise and a place they never want to leave, myself included, many younger Fijians feel stuck there wanting to experience other parts of the world. Once again it hammered home just how lucky and privileged we are to be in a position to travel. Eventually the kava's numbing effect began working, lulling us closer and closer to sleep and so we called it a night. 

On Thursday after a breakfast of many different types of cake we joined the snorkelling trip bound for the nearby Blue Lagoon. The pristine waters were incredible and there were many different types of beautiful fish in this divine underwater world. We took pieces of bread into the water and swarms of fish gathered round us, eager for a bite to eat right out of our hands. Once we had enough of swimming around, which was quite a while later, we wallowed in the water just off the beautiful white sandy beach. 

The afternoon was spent lazing on the beach and I participated in another weaving lesson, actually weaving my own bracelet this time. We watched another gorgeous sunset before dinner and after retired to our hut to read and have an early night.

I decided to take part in the village trip on Friday morning and it was interesting to see the village life but unfortunately we could not visit the school as it was closed for Good Friday. It was a half hour walk through the muggy forest of palm trees and thick grass. Needless to say it was pretty hot and sweaty work. 

The village is nestled on a green hillside overlooking the sparkling blue sea. We wandered through it smiling and waving at locals who all wanted to invite us in for a drink. We stopped at the church before making our way back. It was on the way back that myself and the other two guests from Switzerland were trying to explain snow to Chris, yet another thing we take for granted.

As usual the rest of the day was spent on the beach sun worshipping before watching the evening show provided by the setting sun and candy floss clouds. We chilled with the locals and other guests after dinner before heading back to our bure and attempting to take photographs of the beautiful full moon and it's reflection on the ocean. Most of the ones on my camera are a squiggly mess as I couldn't stay still for long enough! 

We were up at 5:30 on Saturday morning, pretty much the crack of dawn, to watch what promised to be another spectacular sunrise. After nudging Chris awake we all set off to an island opposite ours which took about 3 minutes to reach by boat. From there we walked up an extremely steep hill through dense vegetation, firstly grass taller then us and secondly a small forest, to reach an outcrop of rock near the summit to watch the day dawn. We did this all barefoot which was definitely an accomplishment and I only fell over on the way down once, being clumsy as usual. 

It was magical watching the sun peek out from behind one of the nearby islands from our high perch amongst the grass and trees. The islands and the ocean looked beautiful in the early morning light. It was crazy being so close to the date line knowing we were ushering in a brand new day whilst elsewhere in the world others hadn't even lived yesterday. When you sit and stop to think about what other people elsewhere are doing at that moment, it reminds you how many people are in the world and that you are such a small piece in this ever changing place. It is remarkably humbling. 

Once the sun had risen we navigated our way down the steep hillside, coming across a dead goat along the way which was a not so nice surprise. Chris allowed me to drive the boat for a bit whilst crossing back to Long Beach. Unsurprisingly, I wasn't very good at it and it was a pretty jerky and bumpy ride back due to my inability to control the speed that well. It was good fun though. We left Long Beach that day and headed onwards to Nabua, our last island stop. 

Until next time.

A x